Castiglioncello is where Tuscany meets the sea. This coastal town sits on the Etruscan Riviera with a working waterfront that feels nothing like the medieval villages inland. You get proper beaches, seafood restaurants, and the smell of salt water. something you won't find in the wine country. It's popular with Italian families on weekends, which says something about how genuine it is. The promontory and old fortifications give it character beyond just being a beach town.
Why Stay in Castiglioncello
- It's a real working beach town, not a resort. Fishing boats still operate from the harbour. Restaurants specialise in seafood because they can source it metres away. This beats the manufactured beach-town feel of some Mediterranean spots.
- You get both beach and countryside in one location. Swim or walk the beach in the morning, drive inland 30 minutes and you're in the Chianti hills for wine or hiking. It's the only place in your Tuscany options that genuinely does both.
- Beaches are proper and free. The spiaggia (public beach) is generous, unstopped, and nowhere near as crammed as southern Italy. Expect crowds in July and August, but May, June, and September are manageable and the water is warmer.
- The seafood is really good and affordable. You're paying for fish that was in the water yesterday. Fair warning: August gets touristy and prices rise, restaurants get booked solid, and parking becomes insane. Come in shoulder season and it's considerably better.
Things to Do in Castiglioncello
The beach is the main event. Spiaggia Libera (the free public beach) stretches along the waterfront. Lifeguards and facilities are present in summer. The water is clean, the sand is fine, and views of the Tyrrhenian Sea are just sea — no fancy development blocking the view. Swimming season is May through October.
Walk the Strada Panoramica (coast path). It hugs the rocky coast north of town, passes the old fort, and gives you views across the water to Elba Island. The walk is 3–4 km, mostly flat, and takes 90 minutes if you stop to look at views. Early morning is best before it gets hot.
Visit the Castello Pasquini ruins. They're on a promontory above town, visible from everywhere. The walk up is short but sharp. Views from the top are proper coastal — the entire beach and coastline spread below.
Take a boat trip. Several operators run morning or afternoon trips along the coast, sometimes stopping for swimming in coves you can't reach by land. These run April to October and cost around €25–30 per person. Less crowded than the main beach and good if you want to see the cliffs.
Drive inland to Volterra (45 km) or the Chianti hills (40 km). Both are reachable as day trips from here, giving you countryside options without needing to move accommodation.
Lunch at a harbourside restaurant. This is the payoff. Sit where fishing boats are unloading, order whatever pasta with whatever seafood is fresh today, and eat for significantly less than you'd spend in a similar restaurant inland.
