Gargnano is a quiet lakeside town on Garda's western shore, set between lemon terraces and the water. It's the kind of place where DH Lawrence chose to live (he wrote Twilight in Italy here) and where Mussolini was held under house arrest at Villa Feltrinelli. The old harbour, the Romanesque church with carved lemons on the cloister columns, and the absence of tourist crowds make it one of our favourite spots on the lake. The annual Centomiglia regatta brings sailors from across Italy. Be aware that the town is small and quiet: two or three restaurants, a small shop, and the lake.
Why Stay in Gargnano
- Authentic lakeside: Gargnano hasn't been polished for tourism. The harbour, the lemon gardens, and the narrow lanes are genuine. It feels like a place where people live.
- Lemon terraces: The limonaia (lemon houses), stone structures used to protect lemon trees in winter, are a unique feature of this stretch of shore. Some are open to visit.
- Walking: Trails climb into the hills behind town towards the Parco Alto Garda Bresciano. The views over the lake are very good.
- Very quiet: Two or three restaurants, no nightlife, limited shops. This is a retreat, not a resort. For supplies, Salò (20 minutes south) has supermarkets.
Things to Do in Gargnano
Walk the harbour and old town. The church of San Francesco has a 13th-century cloister with columns carved with lemons and oranges. It's a five-minute visit but a lovely detail.
Visit a limonaia. The restored lemon house La Malora is open for visits and explains the centuries-old citrus cultivation tradition. Entry a few euros.
Hike the trails above town. The path to Sasso (about an hour) gives panoramic lake views. More ambitious walkers can continue to Cima Comer (2-3 hours). Salò (20 minutes south) has a waterfront promenade, a Saturday market, and the largest town centre on the western shore. Riva del Garda (30 minutes north) has the northern lake mountains and wind sports. Isola del Garda, a private island with a neo-Gothic villa and Italian gardens, runs guided visits by boat from various lake towns (check seasonal schedules).
