St Ives sits on a narrow headland in west Cornwall, with beaches on three sides and a light that's been drawing artists here since the 1880s. The town is a tangle of narrow lanes, granite cottages, and galleries, with the Tate St Ives perched above Porthmeor Beach. It's popular for good reason, and that popularity is the main caveat: in peak summer, the streets are rammed, parking is near-impossible, and the approach roads crawl. Come in shoulder season and it's a different experience entirely. We rate it as one of the best coastal towns in England.
Why Stay in St Ives
- Four beaches: Porthmeor (surf), Porthminster (sheltered, sandy), Porthgwidden (small, tucked away), and the Harbour Beach. Each has a different character, and you can switch depending on wind direction. All are walkable from the town centre.
- Art and culture: The Tate St Ives, the Barbara Hepworth Museum, and dozens of independent galleries give the town a creative edge that most seaside resorts lack.
- Branch line train: The St Ives branch line from St Erth is one of the most scenic short rail journeys in the UK. It also solves the parking problem: leave your car at St Erth and take the train in.
- Crowds caveat: July and August are extremely busy. The narrow streets weren't built for the volume of visitors they now receive. If possible, visit in May, June, or September for a calmer experience.
Things to Do in St Ives
Spend a morning at the Tate St Ives. The gallery focuses on modern British art with a strong connection to the local artist colonies. The building itself is worth the visit for its position above Porthmeor Beach. Entry is around £15. The Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden nearby is smaller but very good (joint tickets available).
Porthmeor Beach is the surfing beach, with hire shops and lessons available on the sand. Porthminster is better for families: sheltered, sandy, and with an good beachside restaurant. Don't overlook Porthgwidden, the smallest of the four, which tends to be less crowded.
Walk the coast path to Zennor (about 6 miles one way) for a proper hike along granite cliffs. It's exposed and moderately strenuous, with a pub at the end for reward. You can get the bus back. For a shorter walk, the circuit around The Island (the headland above the harbour) takes 20 minutes and gives you views across all four beaches.
Day trips to Land's End (30 minutes), the Minack Theatre near Porthcurno (40 minutes), and Mousehole (25 minutes) are all easy drives. Be warned that Cornwall's roads are single-track in places and crawl behind campervans in summer.
