Bari is Puglia's capital and its largest city, a place that most British visitors see only through an airport window or a car windscreen. That's a shame. The old town (Bari Vecchia) is a dense warren of lanes where women still make orecchiette pasta on tables in the street, the Basilica di San Nicola holds the relics of Father Christmas, and the seafood is among the best (and cheapest) in southern Italy. It's not a villa-holiday destination in the traditional sense, but for visitors who want a city break combined with day trips into the Puglian countryside, Bari has more substance than it gets credit for.
Why Stay in Bari
- Bari Vecchia — the old town is raw, atmospheric, and endlessly interesting. It's gentrifying but still has rough edges, which is part of the appeal.
- Street food and seafood — raw octopus, sea urchin, focaccia barese (with tomatoes and olives), and panzerotti (fried calzones). The food scene is exceptional and affordable.
- Transport hub, Bari's airport, port, and train station make it the easiest entry point for Puglia. Direct flights from the UK are frequent and cheap.
- Honest caveat. Bari is a real city with real city problems. Petty crime in the old town can be an issue (watch your bag). The modern city outside the old walls is not especially attractive. Traffic and parking are stressful.
Things to Do in Bari
Walk through Bari Vecchia without a fixed route. The lanes are narrow and confusing, and that's the point. You'll stumble on churches (there are over 40 in the old town), pasta-making grandmothers, and small piazzas where children play football against medieval walls. The Basilica di San Nicola, built to house the stolen relics of St Nicholas, is the main monument and has a Romanesque interior worth seeing.
The Cattedrale di San Sabino and the Castello Normanno-Svevo (Frederick II's castle) anchor the northern edge of the old town. The castle courtyard hosts occasional exhibitions and is free to enter.
For food, start with focaccia from Panificio Fiore or Santa Rita, then work your way through the raw seafood stalls along the harbour. The Mercato Coperto (covered market) near the seafront sells fish, produce, and local cheeses.
The Lungomare Nazario Sauro, the seafront promenade, runs for several kilometres and is popular for evening walks. It offers views across the Adriatic and connects the old town to the newer Madonnella quarter.