Ancona is the capital of the Marche region, a port city built on a promontory jutting into the Adriatic. It's the kind of place that most visitors only see from a ferry deck on the way to Croatia or Greece, and it doesn't do much to market itself. But the old centre has a Romanesque cathedral on the clifftop, a lively fish market, a decent archaeological museum, and some of the best seafood in the Adriatic. It also sits at the edge of the Conero Riviera, one of Italy's most attractive (and least known) stretches of coastline.
Why Stay in Ancona
- Conero Riviera access — the Monte Conero headland, just south of the city, has dramatic white-cliff beaches (Portonovo, Mezzavalle, Due Sorelle) that are among the best on the Adriatic.
- Real city, real prices — Ancona is a working port city, not a tourist resort. Restaurants serve dockworkers and office staff, which keeps prices honest and portions generous.
- Transport hub, the city has an airport, a major train station, and a ferry port. It's the easiest entry point for the Marche.
- Honest caveat. Ancona's port area and modern outskirts are industrial and unattractive. The city suffered bomb damage in WWII and hasn't had the most sympathetic rebuilding. It takes effort to find the appeal, but it's there.
Things to Do in Ancona
Walk up to the Cattedrale di San Ciriaco, a Romanesque-Gothic cathedral on the Guasco hill. The views from the terrace sweep across the harbour, the city, and the Adriatic. The church itself has an elegant façade and a crypt worth seeing.
The Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche, in the Palazzo Ferretti, has a strong collection that runs from Palaeolithic tools to Roman bronzes, with particular strength in Picene and Greek artefacts. It's one of the better regional museums in Italy.
For the real draw, head south to the Conero beaches. Portonovo (15 minutes from the centre) is a bay backed by Mediterranean scrub with two good fish restaurants and clean water. Mezzavalle (reached by a steep trail) is more secluded. The Due Sorelle beach (two rock stacks) is accessible by boat from Numana or Sirolo.
Sirolo and Numana, the small resort towns on the south side of Monte Conero, are about 20 minutes from Ancona and make pleasant bases for beach days, with more traditional seaside-village atmosphere.