Balatonmáriafürdő, Balatonkeresztúr and Balatonberény (west end)
Balatonmáriafürdő has more of our Balaton houses than anywhere else, in a long strip of holiday streets between the railway and the lake. The water is shallow and warms up quickly. Keszthely's Festetics Palace and the warm thermal lake at Hévíz are around half an hour away round the western tip, and the Kis-Balaton wetland has a water buffalo reserve. Budapest airport is just over two hours by car; the small Hévíz-Balaton airport is closer.
Best for: Families who want quiet beaches and lots of houses to choose from
Not for you if: You want nightlife or a proper town centre: this is a long ribbon of holiday streets.
Fonyód and Balatonfenyves (Csisztapuszta)
Fonyód is built around two small hills, and from the top you look across the water to the old volcanic hills of Badacsony on the north shore. In summer, passenger boats cross from Fonyód to Badacsony for its wine cellars and walks. Balatonfenyves next door is flatter and quieter, with a narrow-gauge railway that runs inland to the thermal baths at Csisztapuszta. Budapest airport is around two hours away.
Best for: Families who want views across the lake and boat trips
Not for you if: You want to avoid the railway: the line runs close to the shore through both towns.
Balatonlelle and Balatonboglár
Balatonlelle has a long lakeside promenade, a pier and paid beaches with lifeguards and slides. The hills behind both towns are planted with vines, and small wineries open for tastings. Balatonboglár's castle hill has a round lookout tower shaped like a ball, with views over the lake. The two towns run into each other, so you can walk or cycle between them. Budapest airport is around an hour and three-quarters by car.
Best for: Families who want town beaches and wineries in the hills behind
Not for you if: You want an empty beach in August: these are two of the busiest family resorts on the shore.
Balatonszemes, Balatonőszöd and Balatonszárszó
These three villages sit between the bigger resorts and are noticeably calmer. Balatonszemes has a small postal museum in its old post house and a few beach restaurants. Balatonszárszó has a memorial museum to the poet Attila József, who died there. Balatonőszöd is the smallest. Shallow beaches, reeds and the shore cycle path run through all three. Budapest airport is around an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters away.
Best for: Couples who want a quieter base in the middle of the shore
Not for you if: You want lots of restaurants within walking distance: choice is limited outside July and August.
Balatonföldvár, Szántód and Zamárdi
Balatonföldvár was laid out as a resort, with a yacht harbour and a long tree-lined promenade. At Szántód the car ferry crosses the narrowest point of the lake to the Tihany peninsula, whose abbey sits high above the water. Zamárdi has one of the biggest free beaches on the lake and a lookout hill behind the town. Budapest airport is around an hour and a half away.
Best for: Sailors, and anyone who wants the ferry to Tihany close by
Not for you if: You want peace in late August: Zamárdi hosts the STRAND music festival on its public beach.
Siófok
Siófok is the largest town on the lake and the nearest to Budapest, about an hour and a half by train or car. East of the harbour, the Gold Coast (Aranypart) has the big hotels and the beach clubs. The Silver Coast (Ezüstpart) to the west is quieter and better for families. The town has a pedestrianised centre, a landmark water tower, and boats to Balatonfüred and Tihany across the lake.
Best for: Groups and young couples who want nightlife and a big choice of restaurants
Not for you if: You want calm evenings: the Gold Coast clubs and bars run late all summer.
