Tossa de Mar sits on Costa Brava's quieter northern stretch, where the medieval castle ramparts frame a cove that feels genuinely different from the busier beaches south. We've found this town offers the rare combination of genuine medieval history and a working fishing village atmosphere. Though if you're seeking nightlife-free tranquility, bear in mind summer brings coach tours to its castle entrance.
Why Stay in Tossa de Mar
- Medieval castle above town. The 12th-century fortifications tower over the main beach and are genuinely walkable. It's a steep 15-minute climb that rewards you with views across the coast. Photography here feels earned rather than staged.
- Quieter than Lloret or Blanes. You're a 20-minute drive from either, but those kilometres make a difference. The seafront is relaxed, the restaurants aren't cookie-cutter franchises, and locals actually seem to live here.
- Strong local fishing culture. The harbour still works. Watch boats unload the morning catch, eat what they've caught at harbourside restaurants. The downside is that this attracts day-trippers, especially July-August, so arriving by June or September matters.
- Small golden beach with character. Unlike the wider sandy stretches nearby, Tossa's cove is intimate. The water tends to be clearer here, though it also means it gets crowded in peak season.
Things to Do in Tossa de Mar
Beyond the castle, Tossa works as a base for exploring this part of Costa Brava. The Camí de Ronda coastal path stretches north toward Lloret in one direction and south toward Sant Feliu in the other. Most sections take 1-2 hours and offer proper Mediterranean views rather than apartment blocks. We've found that early-morning walks on these paths beat any crowded beach time in July.
The Museum of Modern Art sits in a seafront villa and holds rotating exhibitions of 20th-century Catalan work. It's free to wander the building's exterior and gardens, though entry to the galleries costs around 4 euros. Worth a rainy afternoon, though small enough that it won't eat half your day.
Montseny National Park lies inland, about 50 minutes' drive. We'd only recommend this if your villa has a car, but the beech and oak forests genuinely feel like leaving Spain behind. There are marked walks of all lengths, and the town of Arbúcies at the park's edge has a good market on Saturdays: real produce, not tourist items.
Sant Feliu de Guixols, 20 minutes south, is a similar-sized town with its own harbour and a Benedictine monastery (now closed but architecturally striking from outside). The seafront is quieter than Tossa, which some prefer. There's a good Saturday market and several one-off craft shops that aren't chains.
Local restaurants worth seeking out: Els Pescadors (at the harbour, noisy and lively, seafood-focused) and Can Pau (tucked in the old town, smaller, less touristy). Book ahead in summer. A proper three-course meal with wine costs 25-35 euros. Expect Catalan as the first language, though English works in tourist restaurants.