Roses occupies a wide bay at the northern end of the Costa Brava, sheltered by Cap de Creus to the east and the Empordà plain behind. It's a mid-sized resort with a long sandy beach, a working fishing harbour, and a ruined citadel that covers more ground than most visitors expect. The town draws a mixed crowd: French families from across the border, Spanish weekenders, and British holidaymakers. We think it's a good all-rounder: better beaches than Figueres, more variety than Cadaqués, and less hectic than Lloret de Mar. The wind can be an issue, though. The Tramuntana blows hard off the mountains, and when it does, the bay gets choppy.
Why Stay in Roses
- Big sandy beach: The main beach curves for over a kilometre around the bay. It's wide, sandy, and has calm water on most days. Sunbed hire is available. The promenade behind is lively in the evenings.
- Fishing harbour: The port still operates, and the fish market feeds the seafront restaurants. The late-afternoon landing is worth watching.
- Cap de Creus access: The wild headland of Cap de Creus, with its lunar rock formations and remote coves, starts just east of town. The drive out to the lighthouse is spectacular.
- Wind: The Tramuntana wind can hit hard and unexpectedly. When it blows, the beach is no fun and the bay whitecaps. Check the forecast before committing to a beach day.
Things to Do in Roses
The Ciutadella de Roses is a large fortified enclosure by the harbour containing Greek, Roman, and medieval ruins. Entry is around €4 and it's more interesting than it looks from outside. Allow an hour.
Drive out to Cap de Creus. The road from Roses via Cadaqués to the lighthouse (about 40 minutes) passes through increasingly wild, treeless terrain. The rocks at the cape are eroded into bizarre shapes. Dali lived in nearby Port Lligat (his house is now a museum; book well ahead). The coves along the way, including Cala Joncols and Cala Montjoi (former site of El Bulli restaurant), are remote and beautiful.
In town, the seafront restaurants serve the day's catch. Walk the promenade in the evening for the paseo atmosphere. The Megaparc Roses (go-karts, mini-golf, bouncy castles) caters to families, though it's basic.
Figueres (20 minutes) has the Dali museum. Empúries (15 minutes south) has the Greek and Roman ruins by the beach. Cadaqués (30 minutes east, winding road) is a whitewashed fishing village that's been an artists' colony since the early 1900s. It's beautiful but the approach road is slow and the car park fills fast. Boat trips from Roses harbour tour the coast and visit swimming coves.