Pals is a beautifully restored medieval village perched on a hill in the Empordà plain, a few kilometres inland from the Costa Brava beaches. The stone streets, the circular watchtower, and the views across rice fields to the sea make it one of the prettiest small towns in Catalonia. It's tiny though, and that's the honest caveat: you can see the village in an hour, and once you've done the circuit there isn't much else to do except eat well and drive to the beach. We rate it as a strong villa base for couples and families who want beauty and quiet over resort convenience.
Why Stay in Pals
- Medieval village: The old quarter is immaculately restored: Gothic arches, stone houses, and a Romanesque tower. It's atmospheric without being a theme park. The handful of restaurants in the village are good.
- Pals beach: Platja de Pals is about 10 minutes' drive east: a long sandy stretch backed by dunes and pine trees. It's one of the better beaches on the central Costa Brava and has a couple of chiringuitos for lunch.
- Rice country: The flat fields between Pals and the coast produce rice used in local paella and arros negre (black rice). Several restaurants specialise in rice dishes. The rice harvest in September is celebrated locally.
- Very small: The village has two or three restaurants, a couple of shops, and that's it. For groceries, you'll drive to the commercial areas near Palafrugell (15 minutes) or Torroella de Montgri (10 minutes).
Things to Do in Pals
Walk the old village. The tower (Torre de les Hores), the Gothic quarter, and the church mirador are the highlights. It takes about an hour to see everything, longer if you sit down for coffee.
Platja de Pals is a broad, sandy beach that's less crowded than Platja d'Aro or Lloret. The southern end, towards the Medes Islands viewpoint, is quieter. Bring supplies: the beach bars are simple.
Drive to Peratallada (10 minutes), another restored medieval village. It's even smaller than Pals but has several good restaurants and a castle with a moat. The two villages make a pleasant combined visit.
The Medes Islands, visible from the coast, are a marine reserve accessible by glass-bottom boat or diving excursion from L'Estartit (20 minutes). The snorkelling and diving around the islands is rated among the best in the western Mediterranean. Begur (15 minutes south) has the best collection of small coves (Aiguafreda, Sa Riera, Sa Tuna) on this stretch of coast, each with its own character. Access roads are narrow and parking is limited in summer. Girona is 40 minutes for a proper city day out.